R6 FAQ, Fuel Controllers, Exhaust, Maps

Check the code.history and see why it was on. Several codes will put.it in a "limp" mode and make it not run right.

That's the other thing; when it bogged/ran like crap no codes or FI light came on, even in DIAG mode nothing flashed. Other than the engine light, the dash appeared as normal.

I was told it could be cam chain tensioner related.... I ordered a manual one but will have a look once I get in there.

If the engine light came on, then it should have stored a code, which should still be in the code history in DIAG mode.

Smog plate question:

Do both of these gold 'gaskets' need to be placed back on the motor/under the smog plate? I have fuzzy memory, I'll need to look when I get home to see if I removed the second one (I do recall the first still being in there when I removed one). I'll have to check when I get home. Or am I misunderstanding and there should be nothing in the motor under the smog plates?

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7659/smogplate4sg0.jpg

I'm talking about the left one. Question derived from here: http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61561

Personally I didn't remove anything.

So you still have both of those in the engine with the smog plates on top.... reading several how-to's online, this seems to be a probably cause for the excessive noise (as other people have mentioned).

Plates may be on, but not sealed. Will get in there again this week.

I have the Graves.... so chances are I may have installed them backwards (this was months/weeks ago so my fish memory won't serve me well).

Sitting on the bike's rider seat, the plates G should appear upside down? So if I'm standing in front of the bike, looking at the nose, the "G" will appear right side up? This is what I'm reading online (I believe, hard to tell with the pictures/text instructions).

Well if you did, don't feel bad, I did one right, the other wrong the first time. (So I wasn't even consistently wrong... )

Sitting where the front tire is looking at the motor, you should be able to read the "G", sitting on the bike, the "G" would be upside down. Assuming my memory is correct. The recess in the plates should clear that screw.

My issue could also be a mix of upside down plates and a timing chain issue (manual cam chain tensioner already ordered). Race/track gave a LOT of noise on decel, which could be from the chain slacking too much as well.

I'll get in there this weekend to have a look.

Did you try looking at the code history?

So the smoggy's are definitely upside down :S (it's readable from the rider seat, so I guess I had my head on backwards).

As for the code history:

d60:00
d61: 39
d62:1

any thoughts?

Stuck at work tonight, will check my FSM and post up in the AM.

Hitting the drag strip this Saturday.. Have the AF set at 12.7 WOT with adding 6* of timing on 102 octane. Hope to see a 10 sec pass and over 130mph.

im sure you can delete/reset the codes..

I just dug in there.... I moved a wire around and SPARK... there was an exposed wire from one of the tail light connectors in the vicinity of the ECU wires/battery. So I capped and taped the connector. Codes are reset and the dash is clear so far.

06/07 should be the same (I have an 06)

I hope it's a fluke, either way I capped off the exposed wire so the error could have been stored from it touching the metal pan around the battery and sparking.

I won't know until I take it back to the track in another 3-4 weeks. I cleared the codes for now, let it idle and run in gear for a while and no codes or engine light.

I will probably bring it back to my tuner to finish the dyno stuff in between (102 hp to almost 112 and he didnt charge me a dime because he didnt finish it, only worked with the AFRs and AT tables because of software issues). So I'd feel terrible to stiff him, plus it'd be nice to see what it can do with a fully finished tune).

well.. got a personal best today. Had a ~12mph head wind and was "moist" out, all in all i ran a 11.1 (last year ran a 11.2) but my MPH was lower then last time (was averaging 125-128mph) (blaiming the wind and not my tune).

Those are pretty good times. The local tracks around here, won't let cars and bikes run together, interesting to see they do that there.

11.1 is boss. We can't run against cars here either

i tried to either run alone or against another bike... i cant hear shit against a car. I was running 125-128 consistently last time out on no race gas or advanced timing, so maybe it was the head wind and sucked for air quality. i was talking to a few locals that raced bikes, they said their MPH and ET was off as well... So, all in all not a bad day, got some more race time, only had the bike (1st one ever) for a year now.

I think i am going to look into a MPS dry nitrous kit.

Nice run, it's hard to tell what your launch rev is at with the car beside you

The R6 can really pull if you get an awesome launch, once you get that down you'll see a noticeable drop in your times.

I haven't had a chance to install my APE cam chain tensioner (I'm getting the rattle rattle rattle from the right side of the bike). But with the Smogs installed correctly it is sounding relatively better; I was noticing a louder sound before.

Race weekend is in 3 weeks so I won't have a better feel of the bike until then. Will keep you guys posted.

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FlashTune Interface vs PCV / Bazzaz
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After messing with the Flash Interface from FlashTune I can say the device has many advantages over the "piggy back" systems.

So who is this recommended for? I would say anyone could use this, beginners are going to have a bit of a learning curve. This has several advantages over a Power Commander (and Bazzaz for that matter).

Advantages -

-No extra devices, or wiring to install or run.
-Reduced Weight (not that a PCV is heavy)
-Controls all 8 injectors (unlike the PCV only doing 4, without the SFM) (Bazzaz does all 8)
-Install is much easier compared to the PCV or Bazzaz
-Frees up throttle restrictions.
-Allows increase in ignition timing.
-Supports quick shifter
-More tuneability

Disadvantages -

-Allows changes that could be dangerous.
-Flashing anything can be potentially risky. (Reasonably safe, but should something go wrong you could lose an ECM)
-More tuning options can result in a steeper learning curve to new users
-Complete lack of documentation, or help files from manufacturer. (At least the folks at Flash Tune are willing to help answer questions when you call them)
-Attempts to "hide" program to prevent the user from backing up software.
-Users are essentially the beta testers of a device that is still under development.
-Currently no AutoTune option.
-Changes can't be applied in real time like the PCV, you must shut the bike off and wait 5 minutes for it to flash.

Despite all the risks, the advantages are very clear. However users must realize that just importing a Power Commander map won't result in a perfect running bike. This is just like a Power Commander or Bazzaz unit, you must tune it to your exact bike, a downloaded map won't be right.

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| Why do I need a fuel controller | How they work | Do I need a fuel controller | PCV vs. Bazzaz | Other options | My Two Cents | FlashTune Interface vs PCV / Bazzaz | FAQ Index |

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Factory ECM Limitations
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The factory ECM has several limitations on it. All the maps I'm posting are for the 06-07 models, as I have an 07. The 08+ are actually quite a bit more restrictive though.

This is the 06-07 and 08-11 R6 factory throttle maps for the 100% throttle position. As you can see the 08+ is seriously limited, especially compared to the 06-07.



This is the stock throttle map 06-07 R6:

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This is the "race" throttle map, that is included with the software (Should be similar to the YEC). You can edit this map to be any values you want:

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The changes to the map seem mild, but it actually makes a noticeable difference. I was actually surprised to see the 06-07 R6 had a much less restrictive throttle map from the factory than the R1s and the 08+ R6.

This is the stock ECU timing 06-07 R6, all values BTDC:

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These are the values they recommend and supply for bikes running 91+ octane fuel.

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I believe these timing advances are still a little on the conservative side, however for good reason. The quality of fuels today is all over the map, with little to no consistency. Even with these bikes having a knock sensor, detonation at the higher end of the RPM band could be catastrophic.

According to the "stock" flash file, the secondary injectors are actually not used as much as I would have thought.

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Again, this is "their" recommendation, included, which increase the proportion of the secondary injectors:

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FlashTune Software
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Now I will admit, just my first impression of the device was not very good. A lack of documentation and software is my issue. First of all there is no documentation, no online help, no help files, and no software included at all. You can download the software, however, you must be connected to the internet to complete the install. The install file you download is only a ~ 400 kbs, then it downloads 22 MB. Then on top of this, the install purposely "hides" the program on your computer to try and prevent you from locating the files to even "create" an offline backup of this software. Perhaps I'm overly paranoid, but after shelling out the money for something that is somewhat "untested" I want to be sure I can still use this device even if the company goes under, or their web site goes off line. I was able to procure an off line version of the program, which is the only reason I did not return the device before even trying it.

This advice has tons of potential to anyone willing to take the time to adjust and tweak it as needed. However I believe they are more marketing this towards people who just want to import a Power Commander map and are happy enough with a "in the ball park" tune. As we all know, downloaded maps are not an ideal setup.

Now I actually typed up a list of questions that I had and called Flash-Tune to ask them. After a couple phone calls I believe I reasonably understand how this thing works, and what the settings do, despite a complete lack of documentation.

First lets start with the main screen, which is probably all most users would ever use.

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Select ECU Base Map File - These are maps you've created, and maps they include. The include the stock ECM file, a pump gas, 91+ pump gas, and maps for two different types of race fuels.

Set YCC-T Throttle Options - This allows you to choose the stock throttle map, or the "race" map. The race throttle map can be edited.

Reduce Engine Braking - This reduces the braking effect that letting all the throttle has. The max setting just about makes the bike feel like it's coasting when you letting off the throttle rather than slowing down quickly. This can take some getting used to, as reduced engine braking can help prevent unsettling the suspension in the curves, however it's amazing how much you can rely on the engine braking to slow you down.

High Load (TPS) Fuel Map Bias - This is where you choose how soon the bike switches to the high load map. When you move to the right of "stock" it will change to a percentage. This percentage is a TPS value at which the high load map takes over. At stock this point can be random, as it's a calculated value. Going all the way to the left will result in only the "low load" map being used, which is NOT recommended. Going full right will actually disable the O2 sensor, and the low load map. This means the high load map is being used all the time.

Import Power Commander 3 or 5 Fuel Table - This is where you can import a power commander map into the ECM. This only changes the high load map. The low load map remains untouched. The software actually does a pretty good job of converting the maps over and blending the values into the high load maps from what I've seen so far.

Cooling Fan - This lets you change the point at which your cooling fan turns on.

YCC-I Intake - Lets you adjust the RPM for the YCC Intake. (08+ models)

Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additional parts and harness required)

US Model - I believe this actually has to do with the immobilizer, but I need to verify this!

Disable EXUP - Disables the EXUP valve.

RevLimiter - Adjust the rev limiter RPM.

Idle Speed - Adjust the idle speed.

Once you have selected the options, "Flash Wizard" walks you through the process of flashing. These steps must be performed in the correct order.

-Disconnect both connectors from the ECM
-Plug flash interface into the computer
-Connect the device to a 12 volt power supply
-Plug flash interface into the ECU.
-Click Ok
-Flashing takes 3-5 minutes.

Ok across the top you'll notice the drop down box that says "Viewing", this is where you can go to edit the maps prior to flashing. Again since there is no documentation and the titles are less than meaningful, I had to rely on my phone discussion with Flash Tune.

Fuel Map Load vs RPM - This is the low load fuel map.

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Fuel TPS vs RPM - This is the high load fuel map.

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On both these maps, you can select areas to increase or decrease. There is also a "blend" feature similar to using the Bazzaz software, however from the little I've tried it, it works much better. Editing these maps is similar to editing a map in the Power Commander or Bazzaz software. At the top you can change from viewing "actual value" to view as a percentage, which will let you see things in a format consistent with the Power Commander and Bazzaz software (viewing percentages of increase or decrease over stock).

Ignition Timing deg BTDC - This one is actually self explanatory, just ignition timing. Be extremely careful when modifying values in here, I would not recommend making changes with a complete understanding of what you are doing. I would strongly recommend you use a pre-set map that included with the software.

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Injector Proportioning - This is the proportioning between the primary and secondary injectors.

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YCC-T Throttle By Wire - This is the throttle map. RPM values on the left, TPS values across the top, the chart is what the bike is actually doing.

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Using / Installing the Device
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As for using the device it's pretty straight forward. However first realize there are some risks. You are flashing to the memory of the ECM, and should something go wrong, you may have a completely destroyed, unusable ECM. This is not the time to use an unreliable machine. Also the flash interface comes with alligator clips on the end for you to clip to the battery for a 12+ volt supply. I'm going to strongly recommend you go ahead and use a regular 2-wire connector. Most bikes use standard 2-wire trailer plugs for battery tenders. This is a perfect way to hook the interface into a power source without worrying about an alligator clip jumping off the battery mid flash (possibly destroying your ECM).



As for getting to the ECM the only thing you need to do is remove the seat, nothing else needs to be removed.



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Navigation
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| Warning | FlashTune Interface vs PCV / Bazzaz | Factory ECM Limitations | FlashTune Software | Software Versions | Using / Installing the Device | Troubleshooting / Connection Issues | Timing Recommendations | FAQ Index |