R6 FAQ, Fuel Controllers, Exhaust, Maps

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Warning
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Folks, I'm not sure if I made it clear enough, there are some risks with flashing your ECM.

There seem to be some R1s particularly which have not gone so well with the flash. There are some issues mentioned elsewhere, but here is one thread you should read. Update on the issue. - (It has been resolved)

When flashing your ECM, it is possible to destroy it. Those who have had the flash issues, have not been able to just flash back to stock.

Second this device is still being developed, and you are essentially "Beta" testers. Which means you will go through the good and the bad, as things are worked out.

We are essentially the "early adopters", and there is a lot of good things you can do with this device. So far after many flashes, I have had all positive results. Your results may vary, and you definitely need to think of the liability issues if you plan on flashing other peoples ECM to recoup some of your costs.

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Navigation
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| Warning | FlashTune Interface vs PCV / Bazzaz | Factory ECM Limitations | FlashTune Software | Software Versions | Using / Installing the Device | Troubleshooting / Connection Issues | Timing Recommendations | FAQ Index |

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Warning
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Folks, I'm not sure if I made it clear enough, there are some risks with flashing your ECM.

There seem to be some R1s particularly which have not gone so well with the flash. There are some issues mentioned elsewhere, but here is one thread you should read. Update on the issue. - (It has been resolved)

When flashing your ECM, it is possible to destroy it. Those who have had the flash issues, have not been able to just flash back to stock.

Second this device is still being developed, and you are essentially "Beta" testers. Which means you will go through the good and the bad, as things are worked out.

We are essentially the "early adopters", and there is a lot of good things you can do with this device. So far after many flashes, I have had all positive results. Your results may vary, and you definitely need to think of the liability issues if you plan on flashing other peoples ECM to recoup some of your costs.

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Factory ECM Limitations
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The factory ECM has several limitations on it. All the maps I'm posting are for the 06-07 models, as I have an 07. The 08+ are actually quite a bit more restrictive though.

This is the 06-07 and 08-11 R6 factory throttle maps for the 100% throttle position. As you can see the 08+ is seriously limited, especially compared to the 06-07.



This is the stock throttle map 06-07 R6:

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This is the "race" throttle map, that is included with the software (Should be similar to the YEC). You can edit this map to be any values you want:

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The changes to the map seem mild, but it actually makes a noticeable difference. I was actually surprised to see the 06-07 R6 had a much less restrictive throttle map from the factory than the R1s and the 08+ R6.

This is the stock ECU timing 06-07 R6, all values BTDC:

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These are the values they recommend and supply for bikes running 91+ octane fuel.

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I believe these timing advances are still a little on the conservative side, however for good reason. The quality of fuels today is all over the map, with little to no consistency. Even with these bikes having a knock sensor, detonation at the higher end of the RPM band could be catastrophic.

According to the "stock" flash file, the secondary injectors are actually not used as much as I would have thought.

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Again, this is "their" recommendation, included, which increase the proportion of the secondary injectors:

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FlashTune Software
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Now I will admit, just my first impression of the device was not very good. A lack of documentation and software is my issue. First of all there is no documentation, no online help, no help files, and no software included at all. You can download the software, however, you must be connected to the internet to complete the install. The install file you download is only a ~ 400 kbs, then it downloads 22 MB. Then on top of this, the install purposely "hides" the program on your computer to try and prevent you from locating the files to even "create" an offline backup of this software. Perhaps I'm overly paranoid, but after shelling out the money for something that is somewhat "untested" I want to be sure I can still use this device even if the company goes under, or their web site goes off line. I was able to procure an off line version of the program, which is the only reason I did not return the device before even trying it.

This advice has tons of potential to anyone willing to take the time to adjust and tweak it as needed. However I believe they are more marketing this towards people who just want to import a Power Commander map and are happy enough with a "in the ball park" tune. As we all know, downloaded maps are not an ideal setup.

Now I actually typed up a list of questions that I had and called Flash-Tune to ask them. After a couple phone calls I believe I reasonably understand how this thing works, and what the settings do, despite a complete lack of documentation.

First lets start with the main screen, which is probably all most users would ever use.

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Select ECU Base Map File - These are maps you've created, and maps they include. The include the stock ECM file, a pump gas, 91+ pump gas, and maps for two different types of race fuels.

Set YCC-T Throttle Options - This allows you to choose the stock throttle map, or the "race" map. The race throttle map can be edited.

Reduce Engine Braking - This reduces the braking effect that letting all the throttle has. The max setting just about makes the bike feel like it's coasting when you letting off the throttle rather than slowing down quickly. This can take some getting used to, as reduced engine braking can help prevent unsettling the suspension in the curves, however it's amazing how much you can rely on the engine braking to slow you down.

High Load (TPS) Fuel Map Bias - This is where you choose how soon the bike switches to the high load map. When you move to the right of "stock" it will change to a percentage. This percentage is a TPS value at which the high load map takes over. At stock this point can be random, as it's a calculated value. Going all the way to the left will result in only the "low load" map being used, which is NOT recommended. Going full right will actually disable the O2 sensor, and the low load map. This means the high load map is being used all the time.

Import Power Commander 3 or 5 Fuel Table - This is where you can import a power commander map into the ECM. This only changes the high load map. The low load map remains untouched. The software actually does a pretty good job of converting the maps over and blending the values into the high load maps from what I've seen so far.

Cooling Fan - This lets you change the point at which your cooling fan turns on.

YCC-I Intake - Lets you adjust the RPM for the YCC Intake. (08+ models)

Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additional parts and harness required)

US Model - I believe this actually has to do with the immobilizer, but I need to verify this!

Disable EXUP - Disables the EXUP valve.

RevLimiter - Adjust the rev limiter RPM.

Idle Speed - Adjust the idle speed.

Once you have selected the options, "Flash Wizard" walks you through the process of flashing. These steps must be performed in the correct order.

-Disconnect both connectors from the ECM
-Plug flash interface into the computer
-Connect the device to a 12 volt power supply
-Plug flash interface into the ECU.
-Click Ok
-Flashing takes 3-5 minutes.

Ok across the top you'll notice the drop down box that says "Viewing", this is where you can go to edit the maps prior to flashing. Again since there is no documentation and the titles are less than meaningful, I had to rely on my phone discussion with Flash Tune.

Fuel Map Load vs RPM - This is the low load fuel map.

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Fuel TPS vs RPM - This is the high load fuel map.

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On both these maps, you can select areas to increase or decrease. There is also a "blend" feature similar to using the Bazzaz software, however from the little I've tried it, it works much better. Editing these maps is similar to editing a map in the Power Commander or Bazzaz software. At the top you can change from viewing "actual value" to view as a percentage, which will let you see things in a format consistent with the Power Commander and Bazzaz software (viewing percentages of increase or decrease over stock).

Ignition Timing deg BTDC - This one is actually self explanatory, just ignition timing. Be extremely careful when modifying values in here, I would not recommend making changes with a complete understanding of what you are doing. I would strongly recommend you use a pre-set map that included with the software.

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Injector Proportioning - This is the proportioning between the primary and secondary injectors.

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YCC-T Throttle By Wire - This is the throttle map. RPM values on the left, TPS values across the top, the chart is what the bike is actually doing.

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Using / Installing the Device
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As for using the device it's pretty straight forward. However first realize there are some risks. You are flashing to the memory of the ECM, and should something go wrong, you may have a completely destroyed, unusable ECM. This is not the time to use an unreliable machine. Also the flash interface comes with alligator clips on the end for you to clip to the battery for a 12+ volt supply. I'm going to strongly recommend you go ahead and use a regular 2-wire connector. Most bikes use standard 2-wire trailer plugs for battery tenders. This is a perfect way to hook the interface into a power source without worrying about an alligator clip jumping off the battery mid flash (possibly destroying your ECM).



As for getting to the ECM the only thing you need to do is remove the seat, nothing else needs to be removed.



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Navigation
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| Warning | FlashTune Interface vs PCV / Bazzaz | Factory ECM Limitations | FlashTune Software | Using / Installing the Device | Troubleshooting / Connection Issues | Timing Recommendations | FAQ Index |

As you can tell, I started incorporating the FlashTune Flash Interface information into the FAQ.

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Installing a PCV
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Start by removing the seat. There are two bolts under the seat in the rear, just lift up on the rear corners, you'll see them. Be careful when reinstalling these bolts, they use inserts in the frame that can break loose and freely spin. Those bolts don't need to be super tight.

Next remove the plastic side panels. They have Phillips head screws in them, and it is very important whenever removing a Phillips head screw to use the correct size Phillips screw driver. Make sure the screw driver fits tightly. Or if you are like me, and got tired of buying new panels every time they broke, cut the zip ties. Once the screw is removed slide the panel forward, it will just come off.



Next remove the side bolts on the gas tank. Loosen the back bolt but do NOT remove it yet.



Next remove the top bolt



Now carefully lift up the tank, careful not to over extend any wiring, or hoses. If you are doing this by yourself, you can use a board to support the tank. Do NOT put the board under the plastic front part of the tank, place it on the metal part of the tank only!



Remove the two electrical connectors, one white one brown. Then remove the two vent lines, those spring clamps are pretty weak, you can remove them by hand. Finally remove the fuel line, notice the cover over the green buttons, this slides back to expose those buttons. Then squeeze the green buttons and pull down. Do NOT force anything, the output on the fuel pump only plastic! WARNING, the fuel system is pressurized. Have a large rag already under the tank, to soak up any fuel that sprays out or leaks out. Also gas may spray out, as it's under pressure, safety glasses couldn't hurt. Also remember you can pulse the injectors in DIAG mode, to help relieve the pressure.



Most people place the PCV in the tail, if you do this you will need to remove the tail. I mounted mine on top of the ECM, and leave the USB cable plugged and in the tail. Notice my "rain shields" for the PCV, AutoTune, and SpeedoHealer. They are water resistant, but I chose to add little pieces of plastic to avoid any issues later down the road. Also note in that location I had to clearance the aluminum bracket back there to clear the USB cable on the PCV.



You will also have to remove the tank support bracket, to route the wiring for the PCV.



Pretty much all the wiring you need to tap into is all in one spot.

1. O2 Simulator, Optional, not all bikes use this.
2. This is the main injector harness, you just unplug it and plug the PCV into those plugs.
3. Is the speed sensor harness, there are two because my bike has a speedo healer on it. I only mention this, as a way to tap into the speed sensor for different maps for each gear on the PCV if you plan on running an AutoTune.
4. EXUP Eliminator plug.



Now while you have the tank off, it is the perfect time to clean or install a new air filter. Start by removing the screws all the way around the air box. Next unplug the atmospheric pressure sensor. Finally disconnect the fuel line to the secondary injectors, it is removed just like the fuel pump one. Then lift off the box top, note there is still a wire running into it, so just lay the box on the bike. If you have disconnected the fuel pump, you already mostly depressurized the system, but have a rag ready, some gas will still drip out of the this line when you disconnect it.



There is a correct order to screw down the new air filter:



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Navigation
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| Smog Block Off Plate Install | Header Install | PCV Install | New Grips | Repacking a 06+ R6 GYTR slip-on
| FAQ Index |

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Cliff Notes
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You don't want to read, I get it.

I want to make my bike louder.
A slip on will do nothing to make your bike louder, unless you get a mid pipe or header. Don't believe me, pull your slip on off entirely and start the bike up.

Do I need a power commander?
Any bike will run without one. General rule of thumb, just a slip on does NOT need one. If you run a mid pipe or header then it is recommended.

Which mid pipe should I get?
The MJS, Olson, M4 are all good designs, and will be similar.

Which slip on should I get?
It doesn't matter, get whatever you like the looks of, they all do the same thing.

I want the best bang for my buck
Than skip exhaust, and do sprockets. Most people prefer -1/+2.

Should I get a mid-pipe or full exhaust?
Either, they both accomplish the same thing.

Ok, now seriously take a few minutes and read some more in this FAQ, there is a lot more to learn about this stuff.

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Navigation
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| FAQ Index |

Re: R6 FAQ, Fuel Controllers, Exhaust, Maps Please help me.

Hello, I have a 08 R6 with only 3 thousand miles, the exhaust was cut off like a slash cut Harley pipe. I have since put the stock exhaust slip on, on, and have tried to hook up the cables. I have no clue how to adjust them. I can only get 68 hp on the Dyno, this bike has the stock head pipe and cat still on it. It was bought this way, with the cut off junk. It has no low end power, could anyone please help me out. Thanks

Is your check engine light on?

The only adjustment you can make to the EXUP is adjusting the free play in the cables. The free play should be 1.5 mm or less. So essentially no free play. Make sure aren't hooked up backwards, since one is longer I don't think you would have done this though.

Disconnecting the EXUP entirely at this point might help you trouble shoot the problem though. The EXUP helps with low end power but it doesn't make a 40+ HP difference, you are short a lot of horsepower. If your engine light is on though that would explain it.

holy great right up

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dIAG Mode
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The R6 has a very advanced self diagnostic system. Anytime your check engine light comes on you can use it to figure out why it's on.

To enter DIAG Mode:
- Press and hold the Select and Reset buttons on the gauge cluster.
- Turn the key on (kill switch in run position). (Still holding both Select and Reset buttons) Your gauge cluster should have H1 up in the right hand corner:



- Continue to hold the Select and Reset buttons until dIAG appears on the gauge cluster (Should happen within 8-10 seconds).



- When dIAG appears on the gauge cluster, release both the Select and Reset buttons.
- Now to "activate" diagnostic mode, you once again need to press and hold both the Select and Reset buttons, except this time the screen should change within a couple seconds.
- At this point you should see d01 : XX, d01 is the test mode for the TVS sensor.



- To exit dIAG mode, simply turn the key off.

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Diagnostic Codes
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Once in diagnostic mode, these "self-tests" are available. Many of these will just display the value the sensor is currently reading. Others however you are able to activate those items by flipping the kill switch. For example flipping the kill switch on 36, will activate the Primary Injector #1, 5 times, once a second.

01 - TVS signal, 12-21 - 97-106
02 - Atmospheric Pressure
03 - Intake Air Pressure
05 - Intake Air Temperature
06 - Coolant Temperature
07 - Vehicle Speed Pulse
08 - Lean Angle Sensor, 0.4-1.4 Upright, 3.7-4.4 Overturned
09 - Fuel System Voltage
13 - TVS Signal 2, 9-23 - 94-106
14 - TPS Signal, 12-22 - 97-107
15 - TPS Signal 2, 10-24 - 95-109
20 - Kickstand Switch
21 - Neutral Switch
30 - Coil #1
31 - Coil #2
32 - Coil #3
33 - Coil #4
36 - Primary Injector #1
37 - Primary Injector #2
38 - Primary Injector #3
39 - Primary Injector #4
40 - Secondary Injector #1
41 - Secondary Injector #2
42 - Secondary Injector #3
43 - Secondary Injector #4
48 - Air Induction Solenoid
50 - Fuel Injection Relay
51 - Radiator Fan Motor Relay
52 - Headlight Relay
53 - EXUP Servo
60 - EE Prom Fault Cylinder Number
61 - Code History, Codes will cycle every two seconds if more than one.
62 - Erase Codes
63 - Code Reinstate
70 - Control Number


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Fault Codes
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11 - Cylinder Identification Sensor
12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
13 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor open or short circuit
14 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor hose system malfunction
15 - Throttle Valve Sensor open or short circuit
17 - EXUP Servo motor open or short circuit
18 - EXUP Servo motor stuck
19 - Kick stand switch open or short circuit
20 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor and Intake Pressure Sensor voltage differ greatly
21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor open or short circuit
22 - Air Temperature Sensor open or short circuit
23 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor open or short circuit
24 - O2 Sensor Signal
30 - Lean Angle Sensor
33 - Coil #1 open or short circuit
34 - Coil #2 open or short circuit
35 - Coil #3 open or short circuit
36 - Coil #4 open or short circuit
39 - Open or Short circuit in primary injector
40 - Open or Short circuit in secondary injector
41 - Lean Angle Sensor open or short circuit
42 - Speed Sensor, or Neutral Switch
43 - Power Supply to Injectors and Fuel Pump
44 - Error with ECU PROM
46 - Charging System
50 - Faulty ECM Memory
59 - Throttle Position Sensor open or short circuit
60 - Throttle Servo motor open or short circuit
Er-1 - No ECU Signal
Er-2 - No ECU Signal
Er-3 - Data from ECU not received correctly
Er-4 - Non-registered data received from meter

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Maintenance Schedule
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The FSM contains a much more complete maintenance schedule, I'm leaving out things like check tread depth, and brake operation. I'm going to list only the major stuff, as I believe you already know to check brake fluid level on a regular basis.

Air Filter - Every 4000 Miles, Check, Clean, Replace as necessary.
Antifreeze - Every 16000, or 24 months.
Brake Fluid - Replace / Flush every 2 years.
Brake Hoses - Replace every 4 years.
Chain - Every 500 Miles Lube, or after washing the bike, or riding in the rain. Adjust as necessary, 1.38-1.77" chain slack.
Control Cables - Lube every 4000
Engine Oil - Every 4000 Miles Change
Oil Filter - Every 8000 Miles, I would recommend changing the filter every oil change.
Spark Plugs - Check Every 4000 miles, Replace every 8000 miles, Gap 0.024-0.028"
Steering Bearings - Check every 4000, repack with grease every 12000.
Swing Arm Bearings - 16000 Miles Repack with grease.
Valve Adjustment - Every 26600
Wheel Bearings - Every 4000 Miles Check.

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Navigation
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| dIAG Mode | Diagnostic Codes | Fault Codes | Maintenance Schedule | FAQ Index |

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dIAG Mode
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The R6 has a very advanced self diagnostic system. Anytime your check engine light comes on you can use it to figure out why it's on.

To enter DIAG Mode:
- Press and hold the Select and Reset buttons on the gauge cluster.
- Turn the key on (kill switch in run position). (Still holding both Select and Reset buttons) Your gauge cluster should have H1 up in the right hand corner:



- Continue to hold the Select and Reset buttons until dIAG appears on the gauge cluster (Should happen within 8-10 seconds).



- When dIAG appears on the gauge cluster, release both the Select and Reset buttons.
- Now to "activate" diagnostic mode, you once again need to press and hold both the Select and Reset buttons, except this time the screen should change within a couple seconds.
- At this point you should see d01 : XX, d01 is the test mode for the TVS sensor.



- To exit dIAG mode, simply turn the key off.

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Navigation
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| dIAG Mode | Diagnostic Codes | Fault Codes | Maintenance Schedule | Adjusting the TPS | FAQ Index |

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Diagnostic Codes
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Once in diagnostic mode, these "self-tests" are available. Many of these will just display the value the sensor is currently reading. Others however you are able to activate those items by flipping the kill switch. For example flipping the kill switch on 36, will activate the Primary Injector #1, 5 times, once a second.

01 - TVS signal, 12-21 - 97-106
02 - Atmospheric Pressure
03 - Intake Air Pressure
05 - Intake Air Temperature
06 - Coolant Temperature
07 - Vehicle Speed Pulse
08 - Lean Angle Sensor, 0.4-1.4 Upright, 3.7-4.4 Overturned
09 - Fuel System Voltage
13 - TVS Signal 2, 9-23 - 94-106
14 - TPS Signal, 12-22 - 97-107
15 - TPS Signal 2, 10-24 - 95-109
20 - Kickstand Switch
21 - Neutral Switch
30 - Coil #1
31 - Coil #2
32 - Coil #3
33 - Coil #4
36 - Primary Injector #1
37 - Primary Injector #2
38 - Primary Injector #3
39 - Primary Injector #4
40 - Secondary Injector #1
41 - Secondary Injector #2
42 - Secondary Injector #3
43 - Secondary Injector #4
48 - Air Induction Solenoid
50 - Fuel Injection Relay
51 - Radiator Fan Motor Relay
52 - Headlight Relay
53 - EXUP Servo
60 - EE Prom Fault Cylinder Number
61 - Code History, Codes will cycle every two seconds if more than one.
62 - Erase Codes
63 - Code Reinstate
70 - Control Number

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Navigation
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| dIAG Mode | Diagnostic Codes | Fault Codes | Maintenance Schedule | Adjusting the TPS | FAQ Index |

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Fault Codes
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11 - Cylinder Identification Sensor
12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
13 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor open or short circuit
14 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor hose system malfunction
15 - Throttle Valve Sensor open or short circuit
17 - EXUP Servo motor open or short circuit
18 - EXUP Servo motor stuck
19 - Kick stand switch open or short circuit
20 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor and Intake Pressure Sensor voltage differ greatly
21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor open or short circuit
22 - Air Temperature Sensor open or short circuit
23 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor open or short circuit
24 - O2 Sensor Signal
30 - Lean Angle Sensor
33 - Coil #1 open or short circuit
34 - Coil #2 open or short circuit
35 - Coil #3 open or short circuit
36 - Coil #4 open or short circuit
39 - Open or Short circuit in primary injector
40 - Open or Short circuit in secondary injector
41 - Lean Angle Sensor open or short circuit
42 - Speed Sensor, or Neutral Switch
43 - Power Supply to Injectors and Fuel Pump
44 - Error with ECU PROM
46 - Charging System
50 - Faulty ECM Memory
59 - Throttle Position Sensor open or short circuit
60 - Throttle Servo motor open or short circuit
Er-1 - No ECU Signal
Er-2 - No ECU Signal
Er-3 - Data from ECU not received correctly
Er-4 - Non-registered data received from meter

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Navigation
------------------------------------------------------------------
| dIAG Mode | Diagnostic Codes | Fault Codes | Maintenance Schedule | Adjusting the TPS | FAQ Index |

------------------------------------------------------------------
Maintenance Schedule
------------------------------------------------------------------
The FSM contains a more complete maintenance schedule, I'm leaving out things like check tread depth, and brake operation. I'm going to list only the major stuff, as I believe you already know to check brake fluid level on a regular basis.

Air Filter - Every 4000 Miles, Check, Clean, Replace as necessary.
Antifreeze - Every 16000, or 24 months.
Brake Fluid - Replace / Flush every 2 years.
Brake Hoses - Replace every 4 years.
Chain - Every 500 Miles Lube, or after washing the bike, or riding in the rain. Adjust as necessary, 1.38-1.77" chain slack.
Control Cables - Lube every 4000
Engine Oil - Every 4000 Miles Change
Oil Filter - Every 8000 Miles, I would recommend changing the filter every oil change.
Spark Plugs - Check Every 4000 miles, Replace every 8000 miles, Gap 0.024-0.028"
Steering Bearings - Check every 4000, repack with grease every 12000.
Swing Arm Bearings - 16000 Miles Repack with grease.
Valve Adjustment - Every 26600
Wheel Bearings - Every 4000 Miles Check.

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Navigation
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| dIAG Mode | Diagnostic Codes | Fault Codes | Maintenance Schedule | Adjusting the TPS | FAQ Index |

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Sprocket / Ratio Changes
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Arguably the best bang for your buck when it comes to modifications to your bike is sprockets. With sprockets you are able to change your gear ratio.

Sprockets are listed in tooth counts, Front Sprocket / Rear Sprocket. Stock is 16 / 45 for the 06+ R6. To find out the ratio, divide the two sprocket counts together.

Stock - 16 / 45 - 2.81
-1/+0 - 15 / 45 - 3.00
-1/+2 - 15 / 47 - 3.13

As a general rule of thumb, going down one in the front, is the same as going up 3 in the rear. The most popular swap is -1/+2. As you can see it's roughly an 11% increase over stock. This will make your bike accelerate much quicker. In theory a numerically higher gear ratio will result in better acceleration, while a numerically lower gear ratio helps top end/speed. -1/+2, is the max you want to go if you ride your bike on the highway. This will still put 75 MPH under 8k RPM, which is as high as Yamaha recommends for extended periods of time. Also remember higher RPMs generally result in lower fuel mileage.

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Chain Replacement / Size
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Chains and sprockets should be replaced as sets. This is because they wear to each other. If you have very low miles you can generally get away with doing -1/+0 on the stock chain. The length of the chain required will depend on your sprocket counts. This is why most chains come with extra length and you cut them down to the correct length.

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Rivet Links
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On a sport bike a rivet style master link is strongly recommended. It does take a special tool to do. It can be installed without the special tool, but the tool makes it much easier. If your chain breaks it will destroy things, the engine case, but I've seen them cut through swing arms like butter. You can not risk a chain failure. The clip style master links are not recommended for sport bikes, even if they are easier to install.

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520 vs 525 vs 530
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You'll hear lots of people speak of 520 conversion. 520 references the size of the chain and sprockets. 520 sprockets must be used with a 520 chain. Stock is 525, on the R6. The pitch and roller diameter is the same on the common sport bike sizes (520, 525, 530), the only difference is the width.

520 - 1/4" wide
525 - 5/16" wide
530 - 3/8" wide

520 is popular because it's smaller so it weighs less. Less rotational weight is always good. A quality 520 chain is strong enough for most people. The downside is with the smaller chain and sprockets, things will wear faster. So it's a trade off, less weight, but increased wear.


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Sprocket Material
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Front sprockets will be steel. The rear however is available in a Aluminum or Steel. Aluminum obviously is lighter than steel, but will wear faster. It should be noted there are several light weight steel sprockets out there that are very close to the weight of aluminum sprockets at this point. Also they make a steel toothed, aluminum center "hybrid" sprocket as well. To further complicate the options, there are hard anodized aluminum sprockets, which make the aluminum sprockets last much longer (lifespan is supposed to be close to steel).

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Wear / Maintenance
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How long your sprockets and chain last depend on how well you take care of them, material and size. I've achieved (and am still achieving) excellent wear out of my rear aluminum sprocket, but I stayed with the stock 525 size to help with that. Keep your chain clean and lubed are very important. Anytime you wash your bike, or ride it in the rain you need to relube your chain. I can't recommend Amsoil's Chain Lube enough, best stuff I've ever used. You can get it by contacting Bob here on the forum.

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Speedometer Correction
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If you change your sprockets your speedometer will be off. To correct this you will need a Speedo DRD. It is a plug and play installation, and easy to setup. I personally own both a SpeedoHealer and a SpeedoDRD, the SpeedoDRD is far superior. The SpeedoDRD is adjustable, so no matter what changes you make, you can always correct your speedometer.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Sprocket / Ratio Changes
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Arguably the best bang for your buck when it comes to modifications to your bike is sprockets. With sprockets you are able to change your gear ratio.

Sprockets are listed in tooth counts, Front Sprocket / Rear Sprocket. Stock is 16 / 45 for the 06+ R6. To find out the ratio, divide the two sprocket counts together.

Stock - 16 / 45 - 2.81
-1/+0 - 15 / 45 - 3.00
-1/+2 - 15 / 47 - 3.13

As a general rule of thumb, going down one in the front, is the same as going up 3 in the rear. The most popular swap is -1/+2. As you can see it's roughly an 11% increase over stock. This will make your bike accelerate much quicker. In theory a numerically higher gear ratio will result in better acceleration, while a numerically lower gear ratio helps top end/speed. -1/+2, is the max you want to go if you ride your bike on the highway. This will still put 75 MPH under 8k RPM, which is as high as Yamaha recommends for extended periods of time. Also remember higher RPMs generally result in lower fuel mileage.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Chain Replacement / Size
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Chains and sprockets should be replaced as sets. This is because they wear to each other. If you have very low miles you can generally get away with doing -1/+0 on the stock chain. The length of the chain required will depend on your sprocket counts. This is why most chains come with extra length and you cut them down to the correct length.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Rivet Links
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On a sport bike a rivet style master link is strongly recommended. It does take a special tool to do. It can be installed without the special tool, but the tool makes it much easier. If your chain breaks it will destroy things, the engine case, but I've seen them cut through swing arms like butter. You can not risk a chain failure. The clip style master links are not recommended for sport bikes, even if they are easier to install.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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520 vs 525 vs 530
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You'll hear lots of people speak of 520 conversion. 520 references the size of the chain and sprockets. 520 sprockets must be used with a 520 chain. Stock is 525, on the R6. The pitch and roller diameter is the same on the common sport bike sizes (520, 525, 530), the only difference is the width.

520 - 1/4" wide
525 - 5/16" wide
530 - 3/8" wide

520 is popular because it's smaller so it weighs less. Less rotational weight is always good. A quality 520 chain is strong enough for most people. The downside is with the smaller chain and sprockets, things will wear faster. So it's a trade off, less weight, but increased wear.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Sprocket Material
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Front sprockets will be steel. The rear however is available in a Aluminum or Steel. Aluminum obviously is lighter than steel, but will wear faster. It should be noted there are several light weight steel sprockets out there that are very close to the weight of aluminum sprockets at this point. Also they make a steel toothed, aluminum center "hybrid" sprocket as well. To further complicate the options, there are hard anodized aluminum sprockets, which make the aluminum sprockets last much longer (lifespan is supposed to be close to steel).

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Wear / Maintenance
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How long your sprockets and chain last depend on how well you take care of them, material and size. I've achieved (and am still achieving) excellent wear out of my rear aluminum sprocket, but I stayed with the stock 525 size to help with that. Keep your chain clean and lubed are very important. Anytime you wash your bike, or ride it in the rain you need to relube your chain. I can't recommend Amsoil's Chain Lube enough, best stuff I've ever used. You can get it by contacting Bob here on the forum.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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Speedometer Correction
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If you change your sprockets your speedometer will be off. To correct this you will need a Speedo DRD. It is a plug and play installation, and easy to setup. I personally own both a SpeedoHealer and a SpeedoDRD, the SpeedoDRD is far superior. The SpeedoDRD is adjustable, so no matter what changes you make, you can always correct your speedometer.

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Navigation
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| Sprocket / Ratio Changes | Chain / Replacement Size | Rivet Links | 520 vs 525 vs 530 | Sprocket Material | Wear / Maintenance | Speedometer Correction | FAQ Index |

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FlashTune Maps
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FlashTune Verison 1.2.2.0 Only!
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06-07 R6
Graves 06-07
MJS 06-07
1.2.2.0 Map with updated 1.5.4.0 similar tables 06-07 - (Load any PCV map into this)
My Custom Map 06-07 (old)
My Latest Custom Map 06-07 (new) (Less aggressive throttle)

08-11 R6
Graves 08-11
Leo Vince 08-11
MJS 08-11
1.2.2.0 Map with updated 1.5.4.0 similar tables 08-11 (Load any PCV map into this)
My Custom Map 08-11
My Custom Map 08-11, with 06-07 Throttle Settings*
*06-07 Throttle map is more linear, and you may find it less jumpy than the 08+ throttle settings.

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FlashTune Verison 1.5.4.0 Only!
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Graves 06-07
MJS 06-07

Graves 08-11
MJS 08-11


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Navigation
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| Choosing a Map | PCV Maps | PCV Maps with AutoTune Tables | PCIII Maps | Bazzaz Maps | FlashTune Maps | FAQ Index |

I've found people tend to actually easily create problems and dead spots in their powerband, by using the AutoTune. This section is how I use the AutoTune, it's my opinion, and what works well for me. This doesn't necessarily mean it's the best way.

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Why AutoTune changes never stop
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DynoJet leads you to believe after reach riding session you should look at the trims and accept them, and by doing this you will eventually reach a point where no more trims will be suggested. However this will never happen.

First your bike is constantly bouncing back and forth between a low load, and high load map. The bike uses several factors to determine which map to use. A couple examples (06-07 Stock ECU):

6000 RPM 20% Throttle
Low Load Map: 9
High Load Map: 46

6000 RPM 50% Throttle
Low Load Map: 18
High Load Map: 63

As you can see there are huge differences in the fuel maps. The AutoTune has no idea which map the ECM is using, it's just suggesting trims to achieve the AFR raito you have set. This means it will pretty much always suggest changes, as the amount of fuel your bike is using will constantly change.

Also this is a good reason to have separate maps for each gear, as every gear will need a different amount of fuel, especially due to the ram air effect at speed. With a single map the AutoTune will tend to go richer after highway trips, and then have lean back out for the lower gears. The factory ECM is also trying to adjust for these changes, further messing with things.

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When to accept trims.
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First, stop accepting trims, especially multiple times! It's best to use the trims as suggestions. However don't use these suggestions after riding it to work and back. Ride the bike for a while the AutoTune is making necessary changes (assuming it's within it's limits), so there is no hurry to accept the trims in your map. I would say generally ride it for a week at least. After that use your AutoTune trims as suggestions. Save your current map before accepting any trims or making modifications, I generally try and include the date in the maps name so I know which order they go in. This way you have a backup and can go back a step if need be. I generally only accept trims once or twice (if I accept them at all), after this I may make small changes, but I really don't ever accept trims after that. Continuing to accept trims, generally results in adding in "false positives". If you monitor the trim map especially after accepting the trims, you may find spots that keep want fuel, that keep maxing out the trim adjustment. These are generally false readings, due to fresh air being pulled straight through and into the exhaust. Generally you should have anything 50+ on your map anywhere, however 40s can be believable in the lower RPM range. You also shouldn't see a +46 in a cell right next to a -30. While there are some areas where there can be gaps between the fuel needed, it shouldn't be huge changes.

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Using trims as suggestions
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Using the trim table as suggestions rather than accepting them is actually very easy. Look at the trim tables, and find general areas, where the AutoTune is definitely seems to want to add / remove fuel. When adding fuel, select that area on your fuel map, and then add in fuel. Don't add as much as the AutoTune suggests everywhere, if in that range the lowest suggest change was a +5, add +5 to the entire area. Even if you have +20s in other spots. When removing fuel, I do so much more cautiously, removing only -1 or -2 at a time. Now if you continue to save all your maps, you should start to notice the AutoTune changes dropping off in those areas some. You may still get large suggestions, that's fine. However making these small changes like this, can prevent the AutoTune from skewing your map in a direction that causes your bike to run bad. Yes this method takes longer to get things sorted out, however I've found it results in a much better map, without weird dead spots in the RPM band.

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Troubleshooting
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Q: My AFR only shows 0.00
A: Make sure you have the CAN termination plug installed

Q: My AFR only shows 9.99
A: If it shows 9.99 at first, then goes to a live reading, this is normal. If it stays at 9.99 your O2 sensor maybe bad.

Q: I've enabled AutoTune but it never actually enables?
A: The AutoTune has several protection functions built in, one of which is it will disable itself it reads something really lean. This prevents it from trying to correct around a serious problem, or a faulty sensor.

your just going off one (high or low) load map correct?

I have the PCV and Autotune, with the temp sensor tapped into. Now my bike is running a much higher temperature and won't go anywhere below 201 degrees, no matter what speed im riding at. And jump to 241 sometimes then slowly work its way down to like 205. I've been racking my brain on why, and still haven't figured it out.