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Converting 2-wire to 3 wire Signals

57K views 31 replies 18 participants last post by  Snoopy0812  
#1 ·
Converting 2-Wire Signals to 3-Wire Functionality


This is a How-to on producing the same functionality that the front stock turn signals had, but with your new 2-wire aftermarket signals.


Here are the final Results:
The turn signal light on the Left of your screen is the Relay Option
The turn signal on the Right is utilizing the Diode/Resistor Option


This mod comes in two flavors:
1. Relay Option – This keeps your running light at full brightness and the light blinks on/off when the turn indicator is activated.

2. Diode/Resistor Option – This keeps the signal dimly lit, flashing at full brightness when the turn indicator is activated.


What you will need:
Soldering iron, resin core solder and flux. Electrical Tape. Wire Cutter/Strippers. 30 minutes.

Relay Option:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062481&CAWELAID=107591283 (12V, 1A Relay)

Diode/Resistor Option:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062589 (1N4001 Rectifying Diode)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062342 (470Ω Resistors)




Electrical Schematic of Relay Option & Diode/Resistor Option :
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Electrical Schematic of relay:
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Step 1: Cut 3 wire OEM turn signal lead, NOT THE HARNESS!!
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Step 2: Cut the 2 wire aftermarket turn signal lead.
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Step 3: Prep the wires
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Step 4: Wire according to the schematic


Final Result of wiring on Relay Option: Note both grounds (black) are soldered on the same post. Also one on the relay posts is left floating.
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Final result of wiring on Diode/Resistor Option: (Solder these first, you can twist together prior to soldering if needed)
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Step 5: Insulate the exposed metal surfaces with electrical tape



I personally decided on going the Diode/Resistor Option but kept the relays in case I want to change it.
:cheers Enjoy :cheers
 
#4 · (Edited)
On my GF's 09 R6 her new (two wire) LED front signals came with two wiring diagrams. One if you wanted them as running lights and blink for the signals like the stock bulbs, and the other if you wanted them off all the time and just blink when you signal.

We hooked them up so they run all the time and blink when you signal like the stock bulbs. No resistors, diodes or relays were required and they run at full brightness/12v (as measured on my multimeter)!

I'll see if I can find the wiring diagram, but maybe it's different on your 05!? :)

-Jamie M.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Same here when I put my 2 wire flush signals on my 2003.
I hooked it up one way and grounded and the positive wire in one slot and they came on all the time.
So I was like wait that's not right.
Then I switched to the other and they were off and came on for signal.
Then I was like wait a second, I want them on all the time and then to signal!
And switched them back.

Now I got some nice running lights/turn signals.

Love it!

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#26 · (Edited)
OK, so let's get back onto the subject for a moment.

I want to wire up some diodes on my 2009 Harley Sportster.

Originally, I simply planned to do the relay option, until coming across this post, so big thanks to OP.

That said, I created a little breadboard with an LED, a resistor, and a diode. Connected it, and verified it worked.

I had to make big changes in the wiring diagram, because the Sportster is not quite the same as the R6 (who'd of thought? Anyway...).

The Sportster comes with Filament Bulbs, and LEDs draw much less current. When replacing filament bulbs with LEDs, load resistors have to be included or the Turn Signal Module (TSM) will detect that not enough current was used, and throw a code (i.e. Check Engine light).

I want to keep it that way, meaning I don't really want a Check Engine light; however, if I keep the load resistors in place (as shown in the attachment), they will be burning heat all of the time. I don't want that either.

How could I estimate how much current this circuit uses without the Load Resistors (in red)? Will the diodes use anything noticeable?

The LEDs I have are Rizoma Zero-11, which are rated at 13W.

Image


Basically, I'm looking to answer a couple of questions:
  1. Is there a way to calculate if I'll need the load resistors or not?
  2. Where would load resistors need to be moved to if left on so that the circuit continues to work as it should?

Thanks,
~Joe

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#29 ·
No complaints from my job!

In fact, as shown in that pic I posted above, I went from having a Load Resistor at each LED Turn Signal (4 in all) to only using a Single Load Resistor. Since I only had 1, I had more flexibility on where to install it. Finding a spot for 4 resistors can be difficult if you don't want them hanging out in the air.