[OhioYJ]

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Why AutoTune changes never stop
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DynoJet leads you to believe after reach riding session you should look at the trims and accept them, and by doing this you will eventually reach a point where no more trims will be suggested. However this will never happen.

First your bike is constantly bouncing back and forth between a low load, and high load map. The bike uses several factors to determine which map to use. A couple examples (06-07 Stock ECU):

6000 RPM 20% Throttle
Low Load Map: 9
High Load Map: 46

6000 RPM 50% Throttle
Low Load Map: 18
High Load Map: 63

As you can see there are huge differences in the fuel maps. The AutoTune has no idea which map the ECM is using, it's just suggesting trims to achieve the AFR ratio you have set. This means it will pretty much always suggest changes, as the amount of fuel your bike is using will constantly change.

Also this is a good reason to have separate maps for each gear, as every gear will need a different amount of fuel, especially due to the ram air effect at speed. With a single map the AutoTune will tend to go richer after highway trips, and then have lean back out for the lower gears. The factory ECM is also trying to adjust for these changes, further messing with things.

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Navigation
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| Why AutoTune changes never stop | Separate Maps for each Gear | When to accept trims | Using trims as suggestions | Troubleshooting | FAQ Index |

 

[OhioYJ]

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When to accept trims.
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First, stop accepting trims, especially multiple times! It's best to use the trims as suggestions. However don't use these suggestions after riding it to work and back. Ride the bike for a while the AutoTune is making necessary changes (assuming it's within it's limits), so there is no hurry to accept the trims in your map. I would say generally ride it for a week at least. After that use your AutoTune trims as suggestions. Save your current map before accepting any trims or making modifications, I generally try and include the date in the maps name so I know which order they go in. This way you have a backup and can go back a step if need be. I generally only accept trims once or twice (if I accept them at all), after this I may make small changes, but I really don't ever accept trims after that. Continuing to accept trims, generally results in adding in "false positives". If you monitor the trim map especially after accepting the trims, you may find spots that keep want fuel, that keep maxing out the trim adjustment. These are generally false readings, due to fresh air being pulled straight through and into the exhaust. Generally you should have anything 50+ on your map anywhere, however 40s can be believable in the lower RPM range. You also shouldn't see a +46 in a cell right next to a -30. While there are some areas where there can be gaps between the fuel needed, it shouldn't be huge changes.

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Navigation
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| Why AutoTune changes never stop | Separate Maps for each Gear | When to accept trims | Using trims as suggestions | Troubleshooting | FAQ Index |

 

[OhioYJ]

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Using trims as suggestions
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Using the trim table as suggestions rather than accepting them is actually very easy. Look at the trim tables, and find general areas, where the AutoTune is definitely seems to want to add / remove fuel. When adding fuel, select that area on your fuel map, and then add in fuel. Don't add as much as the AutoTune suggests everywhere, if in that range the lowest suggest change was a +5, add +5 to the entire area. Even if you have +20s in other spots. When removing fuel, I do so much more cautiously, removing only -1 or -2 at a time. Now if you continue to save all your maps, you should start to notice the AutoTune changes dropping off in those areas some. You may still get large suggestions, that's fine. However making these small changes like this, can prevent the AutoTune from skewing your map in a direction that causes your bike to run bad. Yes this method takes longer to get things sorted out, however I've found it results in a much better map, without weird dead spots in the RPM band.

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Navigation
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| Why AutoTune changes never stop | Separate Maps for each Gear | When to accept trims | Using trims as suggestions | Troubleshooting | FAQ Index |

 

[OhioYJ]

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Troubleshooting
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Q: My AFR only shows 0.00
A: Make sure you have the CAN termination plug installed

Q: My AFR only shows 9.99
A: If it shows 9.99 at first, then goes to a live reading, this is normal. If it stays at 9.99 your O2 sensor maybe bad.

Q: I've enabled AutoTune but it never actually enables?
A: The AutoTune has several protection functions built in, one of which is it will disable itself it reads something really lean. This prevents it from trying to correct around a serious problem, or a faulty sensor.

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Navigation
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| Why AutoTune changes never stop | Separate Maps for each Gear | When to accept trims | Using trims as suggestions | Troubleshooting | FAQ Index |

 

[OhioYJ]

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Installing New Grips
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Installing new grips is actually really easy. I say it can easily be done in 5 minutes. Start by removing your bar ends, an allen wrench should be all you need.

Next using a sharp razor blade/knife, carefully cut the grip, and only the grip. I cut upwards, and away from myself, to ensure I don't scratch up the clip on. Be careful! Usually once you get 3/4 through you'll probably be able to pull the grip off no problems.

You need hairspray.

Holding a rag under the clip on, spray the hairspray all the way around the clip on. Soak it, don't be shy with the hair spray. Keep the rag over your plastics until you are done installing the grip, so hair spray doesn't get on your paint. I also spray the inside of the grip as well, again don't be shy with the hairspray. Now slide the grip on, it should go on fairly easily.

You have a very short time window to adjust the grip as needed. Make sure it is straight and not twisted, as once it dries, it won't come back off easily. Also quickly install your bar end to make sure the grip is in the correct location. If it needs to be pushed on further, or pulled back some, do so quickly.

On the throttle side, you should find a plastic washer, make sure you leave this in place. This will help prevent the grip from sticking to the throttle cable housing. Also on the throttle side, don't push the grip all the way on, there should be some gap between the grip and throttle cable housing. After installing the grip, install your bar end, and twist the throttle and make sure it snaps back. If it rubs anything at all, it needs to be fixed quickly before it dries. Check to make sure your throttle returns several times, with the bar end installed.

After installing the grips, they should be dry within ~30 minutes on a warm day. They shouldn't slip or twist at all. I usually try not to ride the bike until the grips have dried fully.

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Navigation
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| Smog Block Off Plate Install | Header Install | PCV Install | New Grips | Repacking a 06+ R6 GYTR slip-on
| FAQ Index |

 

[MinnesotaTA]

nice... i just installed the E3 spark plugs. lol *hint*, make sure u unscrew the tip points before you screw the plugs down.

But, shes ready to go for tomorrow. Put in the new coil pack harness, i guess the fans ate one up, never know, might have been hittin on 3 cylinders, lost 5mph at the drag strip.

 

[OhioYJ]

Maybe, but I know I definitely noticed when I lost two cylinders, and then just one thanks to a faulty PCV firmware file.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

Maybe, but I know I definitely noticed when I lost two cylinders, and then just one thanks to a faulty PCV firmware file.

who knows.. but, i do know it didnt help any. :toocool:

 

[Mr. Azim]

Just finished a full race weekend.... no problems with the exhaust, delivery or FI/Engine light. It might have been attributed to a fluke, the upside down smog plates or stock cam chain tensioner crapping out (when I replaced it with a manual one, the stock one was able to spring backwards).

Either way, the R6 is running great. Now I'm thinking about doing a head-gasket switch and adding a quick-shifter.

Any recommendations on the quick-shifter that is PCV friendly? I'm wondering if I need to buy the 08/09 kit since the 06 is for the PCIII.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

Im running the dynojet quickshifter.. love it man, its nice yo just hold the hammer down and shift.

On another note, i took out the crap underneath the block off plates and added the E3 plugs, and mother fricker is it loud, it sounds different. Its so loud about 100 miles into the ride yesterday my ears started ringing and haven't stopped since. After 200 miles into the ride i had to stop hammering on it as it was too painful. Need to invest in ear plugs for the long rides.

 

[DarkravenR6]

Im running the dynojet quickshifter.. love it man, its nice yo just hold the hammer down and shift.

On another note, i took out the crap underneath the block off plates and added the E3 plugs, and mother fricker is it loud, it sounds different. Its so loud about 100 miles into the ride yesterday my ears started ringing and haven't stopped since. After 200 miles into the ride i had to stop hammering on it as it was too painful. Need to invest in ear plugs for the long rides.

If you removed the reed valves under the block offs then you're probably blowing exhaust out through them. The reeds help seal around them. Put them back!

 

[MinnesotaTA]

If you removed the reed valves under the block offs then you're probably blowing exhaust out through them. The reeds help seal around them. Put them back!

I used RTV sealant around it.. I guess ill put them back in and hope it helps.

 

[Mr. Azim]

Im running the dynojet quickshifter.. love it man, its nice yo just hold the hammer down and shift.
.

So if I have the 06 with PCV....

Question 1: what do I need to get the quickshifter? I assume I can't use the older standalone because it works with PCIII, doesn't it? Ignition Module + Quickshifter sensor/shift link?

Question 2: I flipped my shift bracket so I have GP shift, I assume I need the "Push" sensor? Now that I'm pushing down to shift up?

 

[OhioYJ]

Anything used for the 08 PCV can be used on your bike. I recommend cutting the ignition over cutting fuel.

I'm going to call FlashTune today and ask which their quick shifter cuts.

Yes you need the opposite sensor for GP shift, I believe it is push in your case.

 

[Mr. Azim]

It may be the opposite.... I push down on the lever, but the shift rode moves up. I emailed Dynojet to confirm which one I need. The sensor required is based on the "direction the shift rod moves during an upshift". So if it's moving up, I may need a "Pull". I'll confirm when I hear back from DJ.

 

[Mr. Azim]

So here's the answer from Dynojet:

The sensor type is not a matter of direction, it is a matter of force. If the shift rod is being pushed on an upshift you need a “push” sensor.



Likewise, If the rod is being pulled when you upshift, you need a “pull” sensor.



I have listed that an R6 with stock rear sets and shift pattern requires a “pull” sensor, so if you have flipped the knuckle and are now running a GP shift pattern, than I would assume that you need a “push” type shift sensor.

 

[milko]

Question. I apologize in advance if this isn't the correct place to post this. I was going through all the "self tests" in diagnostic mode and in #s 36-43 (all the injectors) I only hear them activate 3 times. Service manual says they're supposed to activate 5 times. Bike is running good, if anything, running better since i replaced spark plugs. Any idea what could be wrong? Bike is 2009.

 

[OhioYJ]

3 times is normal, just one of the many "inconsistencies" in the factory service manual.

You would know if you didn't have all your injectors firing, I went through that recently.

 

[milko]

3 times is normal, just one of the many "inconsistencies" in the factory service manual.

You would know if you didn't have all your injectors firing, I went through that recently.

AHH!! ok.. Thanks for your help. I wasn't sure. I'm using the 08 service manual i found here on the forums(haven't been able to find an 09) so i was a tad worried but since they ALL only fire 3 times i figured it was probably normal. Thanks again:cheers

 

[OhioYJ]

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Adjusting the TPS
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Before I go into how to adjust the TPS sensor, I'm going to suggest you not touch anything, unless you are having a problem, and the TPS code is thrown, or your dIAG values for the TPS are way off. Generally there is no reason to adjust the TPS in my opinion.

Adjusting the TPS sensor is pretty straight forward. The service manual refers to two TPS sensors, one for the throttle cable, the other for the throttle valves. I refer to the one for the throttle valves as TVS to avoid any confusion. If you need help removing the tank to get to the TPS, use my PCV install writeup.

Once you have the tank and air box removed, you will be able to access the TPS. The TPS is on the left side, the TVS is on the right side against the frame. The middle part, is the servo that actually opens and closes the throttle valves.

On a side note, for those that want to clean it, the 06+ R6 TPS is fairly sealed, so getting any cleaner in it will prove fairly difficult.

Before doing anything else, make sure your current TPS location is marked. From the factory it should have a paint mark on it. If it does not, marker it with some paint, scratch it, marker, whatever. This will ensure you can put it back where it was should you make your problem worse.

The TPS does have hex heads on the screws however a socket won't fit on the heads. They also have a phillips head on the screw. You can use a screw bit and wrench to loosen these bolts.

Now I will say the factory service manual would have you use two "C" batteries, and read the voltage output from the TPS, however I'm going to suggest just using dIAG mode, to simplify things. If you don't know how to get in dIAG mode, use my guide here. Using the Diagnostic Codes table you will be using these dIAG modes:

dIAG Mode # - Sensor Tested - Closed Value Range - 100% Throttle Value Range
01 - TVS signal, 12-21 - 97-106
13 - TVS Signal 2, 9-23 - 94-106
14 - TPS Signal, 12-22 - 97-107
15 - TPS Signal 2, 10-24 - 95-109

Note, the values displayed do NOT respresent what the throttle is actually at. Just because the TVS reads 109, does NOT mean the throttle valves are actually at 109%, those values are just an acceptable range. So if your TVS is only reading 94, your throttle valves are still at 100% (wide open) when it reaches 94.

You can adjust these sensors in dIAG mode with the bike on, however, realize the system will not take a large change. If you move the sensor too much, the whole system shuts down, and you have to exit and go back into dIAG mode to get the system to read again. It doesn't take much of a change to make a big difference. Also be careful when tightening the sensor back down as it may move when you tighten it. So check the readings again after it is tight.

Now what about the TVS sensor? Well this one is one you really shouldn't mess with unless are having a problem. Don't touch it. However if you wish, to get to it, you will need to remove the throttle bodies. They don't need to be fully removed, you can leave everything hooked up, but you will have to loosen the boots so you can pull them up to get the TVS loose. Adjusting the TVS will take a tamper resistant torx bit. Also note adjusting this moves the throttle blades. Yes you can adjust the throttle blades to open wider like this, however if you are not careful you can open the valves too far, and actually start to restrict air flow again. Also keep in mind the blade does not need to be completely vertical, in fact you don't want it completely vertical. The goal is to have the blade just barely hide the shaft in the center. Opening it wider won't matter as the shaft will still limit that much air flowing in. I took very careful measurements and decided to open the throttle blades slightly further than the factory set them, so I did adjust this.

If you did remove the throttle bodies to adjust the TVS, you may find it very hard to reseat the throttle bodies. It is very, very important you get them full seated. My recommendation would be to use some silicone spray on the rubber boots to lubricate them. Do not go crazy with it, or spray it into the motor, just use a rag to wipe it on.

After you have everything reassembled and bolted down, do a final retest of your adjustments in dIAG mode, before putting the tank back on.

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