[OhioYJ]

How does the Auotune exactly work? I'm running a map from the website now with my PC V but planning on buying the Autotune.

Do you still load a map in the PCV with autotune? Or does it come with presettings or something thats optimal for your bike and the auotune help to reach these settings?

If so, how do you know which are the optimal settings for my '08 for example

I would suggest running a base map, that way it will take the auto tune less time to make its adjustments. You will have to fill in the AFR target tables once auto tune is enabled. My suggestion would be to use one of the MJS maps with AFR targets I have posted in this FAQ.

I do have a richer version that makes slightly more power you can try if you want as well. PM me your email and I can send you two versions to try.

 

[Mr. Azim]

Any suggestions/alterations on the MJS maps or FA ratios for road race/track use? I have everything I need for my 2006 R6 so I'll be building throughout the winter... unfortunately won't have a chance to road test until the spring.

Super thanks cuz I know this will be a good starting point at the very least for the auto-tune. Awesome write up.

 

[OhioYJ]

Any suggestions/alterations on the MJS maps or FA ratios for road race/track use?.

Usually on the track, a richer map would probably be better. I've found the leaner map seems to have better throttle response, but not as smooth as a richer map. With a richer map it's easier to smooth with the throttle in the corners. You can be smooth with the lean map just have to be more gentle with the throttle roll on. I prefer the lean map myself. Here is links to the "lean" and "rich" map so you can try both and see which you prefer:

This is a basic map, with the AFR tables, 500 RPM resolution:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_500.pvm

Same map, with the AFR table, but uses separate maps for each gear, I strongly recommend setting the PCV up this way (in my opinion this is necessary) (250 rpm resolution on this one):

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_Gear_250.pvm

This map is using much richer AFR targets. I've found this map to make roughly 0.5 - 1 HP more on the dyno. It is slightly smoother as well. However I've found these richer targets to be more temperamental to temperature changes and other environmental changes, and have since gone back to the "leaner" map (my lean map is still definitely on the safe side of rich).

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_250_G_Richer.pvm

These are my AFR tables, this is the "leaner" map that I prefer:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/afrmap.png

This was the "richer" AFR table:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/dyno/newricherafr.png

 

[Mr. Azim]

Thanks, this write up is a HUGE help. So it's proven that the PCV w/ Autotune can work on a 2006/2007 R6.

Does anyone have any experience with the Secondary Fuel Module and/or Quick Shift Sensor on the 2006/2007 R6?

 

[OhioYJ]

Thanks, this write up is a HUGE help. So it's proven that the PCV w/ Autotune can work on a 2006/2007 R6.

Does anyone have any experience with the Secondary Fuel Module and/or Quick Shift Sensor on the 2006/2007 R6?

Works fine on my 2007.

My recommendation is do not use the Secondary Fuel Module for the Quick Shifter. The "correct" way to kill the motor for a quick shifter is using the ignition module. Cutting fuel is unreliable and can create dangerously lean conditions. The secondary fuel module is worth some low to mid-range power though. However it's not the recommended method to use the quick shifter.

 

[pwerboost]

somebody knows how to test the o2 sensor for the autotune kit. i believe my sensor is bad. it shows 14.85 at idle, but when i check the trim after several days of driving, it suggest to rich the A/F pretty much everywhere on the map.

so, lets say i start with a base map (like the one Ohioyj suggested with his A/F table). with the autotune set=up to 30% increase, 20% decrease. the trim will come out maxing at 30 almost everywhere and if i accept the changes and keep testing, it will keep suggesting me to increase the fuel until i lose the idle completed. it doesn't feel bad under WOT even though my map is on 40,60,80 across the the table.

i also tried to follow the instructions recomended by dynoyet to test the o2 sensor:

-remove the sensor and place to the ambient.
-power the sensor at least for 1 minute before the test
-then i press the test button on the autotune module.
-the light flash quickly then pause like it should, now i am suppose to count the number of flashes after the pause and compare it to a table on the instructions. but the light start blinking slowly and never stops .

any suggestions?????

BTW: i believe i have an exhaust leak. but it could be the o2 sensor too

 

[OhioYJ]

somebody knows how to test the o2 sensor for the autotune kit. i believe my sensor is bad. it shows 14.85 at idle, but when i check the trim after several days of driving, it suggest to rich the A/F pretty much everywhere on the

i also tried to follow the instructions recomended by dynoyet to test the o2 sensor:

-remove the sensor and place to the ambient.
-power the sensor at least for 1 minute before the test
-then i press the test button on the autotune module.
-the light flash quickly then pause like it should, now i am suppose to count the number of flashes after the pause and compare it to a table on the instructions. but the light start blinking slowly and never stops

BTW: i believe i have an exhaust leak. but it could be the o2 sensor too

Don't accept any of those super rich trims, go back to an unaltered base map, as your map shouldn't be 60+ all over.

And exhaust leak can definitely cause the sensor to read improperly. You need to solve the exhaust leak as well. You do have smog block off plates right?

I've never used the self test function in the auto tune, but my understanding is the light should stop blinking then you check to see if the number of blinks vs your elevation is in the acceptable range. The 60 seconds they tell you to wait is critical, O2 sensors have to be a minimum temperature to read correctly, so it needs time to preheat itself. I would recommend you call dynojet and talk to there tech support, they are very helpful.

As already mentioned an exhuast leak will give you problems, if you already suspect this I would start there.

 

[Mr. Azim]

Question related to smog block off plates: does the air injection system need to be removed? Any problems/damage that might occur if you don't, or is it just a weight factor people consider?



From Bayside Performance:

Application: Yamaha R1 (2004-09) / R6 (2003-09) / R6S (2006-09)

Description: Graves Motorsports Smog Block Off Plates are designed to seal off the ports on the valve cover used by the air injection system (a.k.a smog pumps or AIS).

The air induction system (AIS) burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons.

Once these are capped off the air injection system can be safely removed. These Smog Block Off Plates are made from CNC'ed billet aluminum and feature the Graves Motorsports "G" logo. There are two reasons why you want to remove the air injection system from your bike;

* 1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance.
* 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio.

 

[OhioYJ]

You won't be able to properly tune the bike on a dyno or with an AutoTune module if you don't plug the AIS. You can save some weight by removing it as well.

Other than that it doesn't hurt or help to leave it or remove it.

 

[geetech]

hey great artical ,

quite in depth.

i have had some great results with the JB Pro, it is fully compatible with power commander PCIII and PCV maps as well has the option of using its own system. this is great because the JB Pro unit is a fair bit cheaper than PCII and the JB Pro can stall upto 10 maps which are interchangeable.

this is great has most of my customers have it fitted and mapped with a dry and wet map, it is also spot on for those inparticular that race in the superstock class as it conforms to the regs!

if anyone would like more info on the JB Pro or any other product be it dynojet or bazzar then dont hesitate to follow the link. I am happy to help!

ta

mick

geetechperformance


:jump

 

[MTspeeds]

Sorry, this might be off topic. But does anyone know if putting back the o2 sensor in aftermarket headers is important? I have MJS headers and idk whether or not to put the
o2 sensor back in. Thanks

 

[OhioYJ]

Sorry, this might be off topic. But does anyone know if putting back the o2 sensor in aftermarket headers is important? I have MJS headers and idk whether or not to put the
o2 sensor back in. Thanks

You don't have to. If you have a PowerCommander or Bazzaz unit I would leave it out. If you don't have a fuel controller and just put the header on, I would put it back in.

 

[LostChild88]

i am new to the sportsbike community. I have a 2003 r6, and i have a question that noone else has been able to answer point blank. My bike's exhaust was cut by the previous owner, all i have is the header pipe with a chrome tip welded on for my exhaust output. i notice that after about 20-30 minutes of riding my bike has hic-ups that are very noticeable and jerky. the bike only has 4400 miles on it. i had it serviced just to tune it up, but it is still doing the same thing. My guess is that with it having a K&N aftermarket air fiter and the (header only) exhaust, it may be running lean. My question is can i keep this setup, and add a power commander in order for the hic-ups to go away, or will i have to buy a full exhaust. I like the placement of the pipe by the right peg, and don't want a high mount. Will this make the bike run smoother, i get embarrassed when i sit in traffic, and all you hear are the rpms jumping from about 1000-1500 and back down, or being looked at like i dont know how to shift because the bike is shaky on take off. I just want a smooth ride all the way no matter how low the rpms. Please give advice, any would be helpful. Thank you.

 

[OhioYJ]

While there are lots of variables, my PCV smoothed out my rough idle on my R6.

 

[bruiser]

i have the laptop hooked up now to calibrate the tps and now it works.....but i does go all the way to 100 instead of 98 is that bad also the voltage reading isnt steady. when the throttle is closed it reads .625 and drops to .622 rapidly is that ok? fully open it read 4.095 and rapidly drops to 4.093 is that ok?

its saying min volt is .617 and max is 4.100 sound right?


when i get out of daig mode it says the %throttle is at 4 and full throttle is 54? is it cause the bike isnt running?


also just loaded the MJS map and will have the autotune installed sometime this week just need the bung welded in.

 

[OhioYJ]

The minor fluctuations are fine, nothing to worry about. Also the voltages will vary some from bike to bike, so don't worry about them being slightly different from mine.

Since these bikes are throttle by wire, they won't go 100% throttle without the bike running
(They won't go 100% till 9000 rpm if I remember correctly.) This is why you have to use DIAG mode to calibrate the TPS, as in DIAG mode it will allow the throttle to actually open all the way.

*edit* Sorry long day today, and I missed the part about reading 4% at idle, it should read 0, you may need to try and recalibrate again, or manually change the voltage until it will read 0. Do these checks with the bike idling.

 

[bruiser]

how do you change the voltage?

 

[OhioYJ]

how do you change the voltage?

You can manually edit the values in the TPS calibration window in the PCV software.

 

[reedyR6]

Awesome read and post. Very impressive. It all makes sense now.

 

[kla2552]

i've follow your instructions, tap pink wire for speed sensor, copy /paste all AFR & table to each gears, but i'm not really clear on the gear calibration part......do i need to start the engine, open throttle to calibrate??