[OhioYJ]

You'll need a stand because the bike will need to be running. You actually let the clutch out in those gears and let the tire spin, try and keep the rpms steady.

 

[kla2552]

You'll need a stand because the bike will need to be running. You actually let the clutch out in those gears and let the tire spin, try and keep the rpms steady.

keep the rpms steady open throttle at any rpms and just hold it, then click the calibrate, is that what you mean??

 

[OhioYJ]

keep the rpms steady open throttle at any rpms and just hold it, then click the calibrate, is that what you mean??

Exactly. I think I used 3000 RPM in every gear when I did mine. I wasn't real comfortable letting it spin real fast on the stand and no load on the tire.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

------------------------------------------------------------------
PCV and Software
------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------
Calibrating Throttle Position
------------------------------------------------------------------
By default the throttle position will be fairly close on the PCV software, however it still needs calibrated to get an accurate reading. The instruction of course indicate this must be done on a dyno because of the throttle by wire. However this is not true, you just simply need to enter diagnostic mode on your bike. In diagnostic mode the throttle bodies will open fully, allowing you to properly calibrate the throttle position.

- Hook your laptop into the PCV.
- Press and hold the Select and Reset buttons on the gauge cluster.
- Turn the key on (kill switch in run position). (Still holding both Select and Reset buttons) Your gauge cluster should have H1 up in the right hand corner:

- Continue to hold the Select and Reset buttons until dIAG appears on the gauge cluster (Should happen within 8-10 seconds).

- When dIAG appears on the gauge cluster, release both the Select and Reset buttons.
- Now to "activate" diagonostic mode, you once again need to press and hold both the Select and Reset buttons, except this time the screen should change within a couple seconds.
- At this point you should see d01 : XX, d01 is the test mode for the TPS sensor.

- As you twist the throttle the number following d01 should climb (it wont go to a 100 typically, this is normal, and nothing to worry about):

- Now in the PCV software, choose "Power Commander Tools", then "Calibrate", then "Throttle Position".

- Now click reset, the min and max voltages should both be the same now, roughly 0.7 volts.
- Now twist the throttle all the way open. The max voltage should increase to roughly 3.9 volts.
- Click "Ok"
- Finally click "Send Map" to send everything back to the PCV.
- Now while still in dIAG mode you should be able to twist the throttle and and see 100% in the PCV software.
- To exit dIAG mode, simply turn the key off.

Why does the TPS calibration not work for me. I can get into the diag mode, but when i twist the throttle, the PCV TPS calibration box wont move.

 

[OhioYJ]

Does the voltage reading change in the PCV calibrate box, or yours just does nothing? Does your TPS read with the bike running, when viewed in the PCV software? Did you click reset to bring the legal back to the current minimum voltage.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

Does the voltage reading change in the PCV calibrate box, or yours just does nothing? Does your TPS read with the bike running, when viewed in the PCV software? Did you click reset to bring the legal back to the current minimum voltage.

Hey Ohio, been awhile... Short winter so not too long.

It does nothing when i tried it above, I saw the numbers change on the DIAG screen on the bike, but the voltage didnt move, nor did the cursor/line in the TPS window....

I tried it a few days ago, but could only do it while it was running, of coarse, just gave it a quick blip but wasnt sure if it actually worked or not. Im still getting 0%, 1% and 2% at idle, so was told to calibrate it.

Got the surging down to a minimal, was reading on here and found to try setting 0% in the target AF's, that helped alot.

 

[OhioYJ]

So does the TPS reading change on the main screen of the PCV screen? Not the calibrate screen, the main window.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

not with the bike off... when its running sure.

 

[OhioYJ]

Hm that is strange, then that means you are hooked into the correct wire. Are you running the latest firmware on the PCV? You may need to manually change the values in the meantime for it to read 0.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

I havent done anything since i parked it last October... Ill have to re-read and see, shit, i dont even remember hooking up a TPS wire, lol Too many beers since then.

 

[MinnesotaTA]

I re-did the TPS yesterday with the bike running... now it runs smooth on 0% at idle.

I did notice while playing around in the menus that it says "invalid state" under the gear advance drop down in the fuel tables (pressure). You know what thats about? I cant change it, no other option.


c/p ur pic

 

[OhioYJ]

I did notice while playing around in the menus that it says "invalid state" under the gear advance drop down in the fuel tables (pressure). You know what thats about? I cant change it, no other option.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Are you using one of my maps that I created with the AT tables, or another one? It sounds like the map you are using has other tables in it (pressure), that it doesn't need?

 

[MinnesotaTA]

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Are you using one of my maps that I created with the AT tables, or another one? It sounds like the map you are using has other tables in it (pressure), that it doesn't need?

Its just one i had from last year and tweaked it along the way... I tried to start over with the MJS / Target AF map u posted, but when i loaded it would even start.

 

[OhioYJ]

That's weird, it should start. I would just make sure you don't have any pressure tables in your current map then. Either way I don't think it will effect anything.

 

[Mr. Azim]

What's the best way to route the power wires to for the Autotune? The manual has a red ring and recommends using it for the negative power then crimping the black wire to the tail light power...... any harm to just put positive and negative straight to the battery? The black wire for the PCV is on the negative side already. No harm to cross?

 

[OhioYJ]

Don't run your AT to straight to the battery, it will be on all the time, and run the battery down. They suggest the taillight because it is a switched power source.

 

[Mr. Azim]

*HELP: I'm trying to calibrate the throttle..... i get to DIAG mode and it starts with d:01 18..... i pull the throttle and it only goes to 52, when I release it it dopes to 17... then it won't move after I pull the throttle.

Also, it's not being picked up by the PCV software. I try to calibrate throttle but nothing moves I'm on the smaller ECU plug #5 (blue wire)

is there a different diag mode i should be in?

And now I'm panicking.... the bike turns over but won't start. While it's turning over, I can see the PCV software reading the throttle/rpm changes so the TPS should be working but can't get it to.

 

[OhioYJ]

Don't panic, you can't mess anything up that bad. What year is this bike? If you are in the correct DIAG mode the numbers should go up and down every time you open or close the throttle.

Those vampire taps they give you to make the wire connections or horribly unreliable. The best way is to solder all your connections to make sure they are a good connection and don't break down over time.

You can manually input the values into the PCV TPS calibration box, and just temporarily use the numbers I have in my images. Then if you still don't get a reading in your PCV software then it sounds like a bad connection, or you are connected to the wrong wire.

You ground and power connections are good right? You did plug into the lower injectors.right?

 

[MinnesotaTA]

*HELP: I'm trying to calibrate the throttle..... i get to DIAG mode and it starts with d:01 18..... i pull the throttle and it only goes to 52, when I release it it dopes to 17... then it won't move after I pull the throttle.

Also, it's not being picked up by the PCV software. I try to calibrate throttle but nothing moves I'm on the smaller ECU plug #5 (blue wire)

is there a different diag mode i should be in?

And now I'm panicking.... the bike turns over but won't start. While it's turning over, I can see the PCV software reading the throttle/rpm changes so the TPS should be working but can't get it to.

It will only do it one time in the DIAG mode... And, the bike has to be started to calibrate the TPS and only do it after it has completely warmed up. I know, I did mine a few weeks ago and this was the only way to do it, just a quick blip of the throttle while its running is all it takes. Read that straight from Dynojet. In the calibration screen for it, the bar wont take up the whole box either when u store the values, so dont try and hold the throttle down to do it either.

And connect to the tail light like Ohio said for the AT.

 

[Mr. Azim]

Similar to yours OhioYJ: a 2006 R6(R)

From all the images/instructions I have access to, I'm in the right wire (#5 connector on the smaller ECU plug, solid blue colour). I'll try without the vampire plug and go wire to wire. Also, I don't see any other injector plugs... are the upper and lower plugs the exact same? I can double check later tonight, but I'm pretty sure it's in the right plugs.

How do you start the bike while in DIAG mode? When I try to start it in D mode, it turns and turns but doesn't start, then the HUD flashes and is back in normal mode.

I connected the AT to the tail light and it gets power fine after i just turn the ignition on. It also reads in the PCV software and I can check it on or off/throw values into the AT tables.

If you have a picture to confirm any of this, it would be of great help.

The biggest issue is it won't even turn over when I try to run it normally now.... I recently installed the smog block off plates (removed AIS, the only thing I unplugged) and MJS full exhaust. Other than that, no other work was done. When I hit the start button, there's a click near the battery and then it just chugs. Nothing out of the ordinary when the ignition goes on.... I have the battery on a tender right now. But it sounded like it had enough juice to get it cranked, it just didn't.


PS: Help thread started here so I don't clog this awesome FAQ
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2435175#post2435175